Clouds & udon: a day at Mount Fuji’s 5th Station

After a couple of wonderfully chaotic days in Tokyo, getting up close to Mount Fuji’s snowcapped peak felt like the perfect change of pace. It wasn’t just something we could do — it was something we had to experience while in Japan.

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A Rocky Start

The day didn’t go exactly to plan. I’d set our alarm for 6pm instead of 6am, which meant we completely missed the buffet breakfast at MyStays Hotel. Not ideal before a big day out.

Thankfully, the Japanese convenience store miracle that is Lawson came to the rescue. With snacks secured and bags packed, we boarded our coach outside Gotanda Station and set off for Mount Fuji’s 5th Station, the famous starting point for summit climbers. The journey took around three hours with a couple of food/leg-stretch stops along the way.

Clouds, But Still Pure Magic

Our day wasn’t the clearest — the clouds were determined to keep Fuji mysterious. But luck was on our side and we still caught glimpses of that iconic snowcapped peak. As for views of the Fuji Five Lakes area… we’ll have to take everyone’s word for it. Even without perfect visibility, the energy of being there was special.

What 5th Station Is Really Like

At more than 2,300 metres above sea level, I pictured 5th Station to be stark and remote. Instead we found: Souvenir shops, Restaurants (good ones!) , a post office, a beautiful shrine, parking areas and observation decks.

Yes — I even sent a postcard home from the tiny mountaintop post office. It arrived in our letterbox in Australia the day after we got home. 10/10 recommend.

Lunch With a View: Miharashi Kitchen

We followed our noses to Komitake Souvenir Shop, because just one level above sits Miharashi Kitchen — a must-stop.

A booming voice calling out numbers greeted us. We briefly thought we’d stumbled into Japanese bingo, but no — those were food order numbers. You select your meal from illustrated menus, pay via machine, and wait for your number to be called.

We went with Mt Fuji Special Udon (¥1,200 each) and Cold sake (¥750 each)

The noodles were fresh and delicious, and the sake was ice-cold and crisp — exactly what you want on a chilly mountain.

Fujisama Komitake Shrine — Don’t Miss It

Right behind the shops sits Fujisama Komitake Shrine, dating back to 937. Pilgrims once prayed here before climbing higher. These days, visitors stop in to wish for good luck in travel, love, and long life.

If the weather cooperates, the lookout near the shrine offers huge views across Lake Yamanaka and Fujiyoshida City.

Not Climbing to the Summit? No Problem.

If you’re not planning on a full summit hike, there’s still plenty to do: four hiking trails, lookouts with breathtaking views, horse riding options, shops and restaurants to explore. You get all the thrill of the mountain without committing to the full climb.

Cruising Lake Kawaguchiko

After our time at 5th Station, we continued to Lake Kawaguchiko for a 20-minute Pleasure Boat cruise (around ¥1,600 for adults / ¥800 for kids).

The boat has: a covered rear deck, recessed lower seating area, an open top deck for 360-degree views

On a clear day, Fuji reflects off the water — unreal. Looking back toward the resort area on the lakeshore, the scene feels a little like southern Europe meets Japan.

Practical Tips

Dress warm — it’s about 12°C colder at 5th Station than at the base. Even in July you’ll want layers, sunscreen and sunglasses.
Toilets may charge a small fee due to the lack of plumbing.

Getting to 5th Station — Seasonal Restrictions

From mid-July to late August, the Fuji Subaru Line bans private cars to reduce traffic and protect the environment.

You can still visit just park near the toll gate (after exiting the Fujiyoshida IC) and take the shuttle bus to the 5th Station.

Also worth noting:

The Subaru Line may close in bad weather or outside business hours.

The hiking trail entrance is closed from 2:00 pm to 3:00 am to prevent overcrowding and quick-climbs.

Once 4,000 climbers enter in a day, access stops.

Advance reservation + ¥4,000 entrance fee per person are required to climb (covers trail maintenance, rescue services, waste management, multilingual support, etc.).

Climbing season runs July – September.

If you intend to climb: book early, check weather updates often, and expect equipment checks — they can deny access if gear isn’t suitable.

Final Thoughts

Even with cloud cover, Mount Fuji left a mark on us. From slurping hot udon with a view, to mailing a postcard from the side of a volcano, to cruising across Lake Kawaguchiko like a slow-motion postcard — it was pure magic.

If you’re heading to Japan, put Mt Fuji’s 5th Station on your list. You don’t need to climb to the summit to feel like you’ve experienced something truly special.

Image above: my Eki stamp from Mt Fuji 5th Station