Delhi Street food – sensory overload at Chandni Chowk

“Indian food is like a symphony of spices, where every note plays its part”.

A month prior to arriving in India, we booked a food tour of Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk. We wanted to learn about India’s street food. Commonly associated with local and traditional flavours, street food is one of the most popular and widely eaten cuisines in the world. Not game to try and figure out what we should and shouldn’t eat, we booked with well-reviewed and recognized food tour specialists, A Chef’s Tour. We couldn’t wait to dive right into the belly of Old Delhi at the famous Chandni Chowk market.

One of Delhi’s oldest and busiest markets, this chaotic shopping precinct is like no other. Built in the 17^th century by the Mughal ruler Shah Jahan, the market is in the North Delhi district, located opposite Lal Quila (Red Fort) and close to Fatehpuri Mosque. It is jam-packed full of retail and wholesale shops wrestling for space amongst a maze of narrow streets. Famous for its food and spices, Chandni Chowk is also a place of religious significance, and home to famous shops, eateries, and charming havelis (traditional manor houses of architectural historical importance).

Our food tour was early October. The countdown was on for Diwali, a major religious festival celebrated by Hindus, Jains and Sikhs. During this time, houses and workplaces are refreshed and decorated.  Clothes, jewellery and gifts are bought. Stocking up on food is important too as family feasts are included in the festivities. Based on my calculations, I thought we may miss the mass mayhem but I was wrong. Old Delhi’s wonderfully chaotic market was a flurry of activity. Merchants were in overdrive. Street sellers were peddling gloriously colourful hanging decorations. Even the wholesalers were in full swing as it was their last day of business before shutting up shop for Diwali. The atmosphere was palpable. It reminded me of last-minute shopping on Christmas Eve. Joyously energizing.

Our guide Ranveer Khangarot was well versed in Delhi’s food, culture, and history. He kept our interest constantly piqued while leading our group of eight through hordes of people down hectic streets and narrow alleys. The tour was an assault on the senses but it was thrilling, kickstarting with a popular spiral-shaped sweet treat.  From there, the food and drinks flowed. I’m glad I took A Chef’s Tour team’s advice to come with an empty stomach because there was a bucket load of delicious spicy and sweet dishes and drinks to enjoy.

Our first taste in Chandni Chowk was jalebi at “Old Famous Jalebi Wala” nestled on the corner of the main street and a labyrinth of alleyways packed with market stalls.  Flour batter drizzled in a swirling motion into a huge pot of hot oil, this crispy deep-fried, syrup-drenched, chewy-centred super-sweet treat is for the sugar obsessed.  

Next, a sobering stop at Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, one of Delhi’s nine historical Gurdwaras (places of worship in Sikhism). We stopped at a langar (community kitchen of a gurdwara) and witnessed women preparing simple food to feed those in need. Before we entered the Gurdwara, we removed our shoes and covered our heads. We made our way to the main hall and sat at the back of the gurdwara while scriptures were read, people listened and prayed. The frantic pace of the markets had disappeared. We quickly realized this tour was more than just a food tour, it was an enlightening journey into India’s culture and its people.

Humbled we moved on. Time for another sweet hit, creamy vadas.  Deep-fried lentil dough served in thick, creamy Indian yoghurt (dahi) and garnished with tamarind chutney, pomegranate seeds and a light dusting of powdered masala. It was interesting to see our group’s reactions to this dish. I loved it; others found it too stodgy and sweet.

Onwards we ploughed, deep into Chandni Chowk’s warren of alleyways. We passed sellers making North Indian dishes including Chloe Bhature (a combination of chana masala and green chutney or pickles). We jostled our way along Paranthe Wali Gali (a narrow street known for its paratha/flatbread stalls), pushing our way through the crowds to reach our first ‘seated meal’ destination. Shop no. 34. Gaya Prashad Shiv Charan.

Thali and Lassi garnered hearty applause from our group. North Indian thali is a balanced meal served on a platter that includes a variety of dishes from the region such as paneer, dals, naans and curries. Our thali was perfect and included pumpkin curry, peas and potato curry, a lentil and potato curry, chutney, vegetables and bananas. It was served with vegetable parathas (flatbread stuffed with vegetables and spices.) From a Westerner’s perspective thali covers entree, main course and dessert, served at once, all on one platter. Genius. The delicious lassi drink was served in a clay cup which, surprisingly, was pleasant to drink from. (These clay pot lassi cups are not reusable; they are discarded after one use. Back to the earth. Environmentally friendly.)

Continuing our spice-route we stopped for Kachori Wala at JB Kachori Wala. Jung Bahadur has been serving crispy kachoris filled with a variety of delicious stuffing and spicy masala since 1970. The kachori (deep-fried pastry was stuffed with lentils, herbs and spices) delivered a spicy hit on the top of the tongue and reminded me of a deconstructed samosa. (A bit hot-on-the-tongue for my liking but Monty loved it.)

Next up – Pani Puri. Both sweet and savoury versions. I was very pleased to have the opportunity to try these. (I had read and watched YouTubers talking about pani puri commenting they were often the source for Delhi Belly because of the water-based filling.) They were quite surprisingly good. Crisp, spherical shells usually filled with spiced potato, chickpeas and onions, then filled with spiced water, chutney and sometimes yoghurt. Eaten in one go, the filling explodes as you bite into it. The punch of the spiced water is a shock to the taste buds. The sweet version dotted with pomegranate seeds was my preference.

Bellies almost full, we headed to Asharam foods, the makers of “real parathas of Chandni Chowk”. Monty and I chose plain parathas which we paired with paneer butter masala (if tofu and ricotta cheese had a child it could be paneer) and mint chutney. We also had the option to add mild chilis or seriously hot chilis.

Not far from Asharam, we headed to the famous Ved Parkash (established in the late 1800s) for Lemon Wale – a thirst-quenching lemon drink in a Codd-neck bottle. The heavy glass bottle’s ‘mouth’ is sealed by a round marble instead of a cap due to the pressure of the carbonated contents. The marble stopper keeps the power-packed freshness intact. Pushing the marble stopper into the neck was a little tricky until our guide produced a special bottle opener. (Loved the bottles. Wanted to keep one to bring home but we had just started our three-week trip of India.)

In stark contrast to the lemon drink, we stopped for Nagori Tea – authentic extra milky, extra creamy, sweet chai served in disposable clay cups. Nagori chai is a blend of tea leaves (black and green tea), cardamom pods, sugar and milk and usually includes cinnamon and ginger. Not only is it a taste sensation it is said to be good for your gut.

Time had come for us to gather our wits and head to Old Delhi’s Spice Market, Kahri Baoli. If we thought we had seen it all, we were mistaken. Touted as Asia’s largest spice market, it must be experienced to be believed. What appears to be utter chaos is in fact, an extremely well organized and well-planned operation in delivering and distributing exotic condiments. This market is all about the people, the spices, the noise, the drama…it’s not for the faint-hearted but it is a memorable experience.  Wandering past spice, rice and tea sellers, we climbed steep narrow steps to the second level. It’s a sensory overload and can trigger sneezing fits; coughing can be inevitable as aromatic spices permeate the air.

We followed our exploration of the Kahri Baoli with a visit to Mehar Chand & Sons, specialists in master blending, spices, dry fruits and tea blends. (To this day I regret not buying some of master blender A. Kumar’s interesting creations.)

Our final taste treat was Rabdi – a rich, creamy thickened milk dish with a set-custard consistency. Milk is slowly simmered until it’s reduced to a thickened consistency, sprinkled with nuts and dried fruit, and flavoured with spices such as cardamom and saffron. Perfect hot or cold.

An after-dinner offer was the final surprise. Paan. A betel leaf filled with an assortment of ingredients and folded into a triangle. The jury was out when we tasted this intriguing Indian concoction. We were told we needed to chew…and chew…and chew…and chew… but we couldn’t quite get past the first few chews.  An acquired taste for some; very popular in India. I have eaten mukhwas (an after-meal digestive aid and breath freshener combining aniseed, coriander, sesame seeds, sugar candy, rose essence and peppermint essence) but Paan was next level.

The tour had come to an end. Our bellies and hearts were full. It was an incredible experience and one that I’m glad we didn’t miss. We returned to Chandni Chowk the following day with our Golden Triangle Tour group and the atmosphere was very different. Not so many people. Not as overwhelmingly frenetic but still full on. Equally enjoyable but A Chef’s Tour was worth every hour spent in the crazy, vibrant Chandni Chowk market.  It was excellent value for money and our guide went above and beyond to help us secure transport back to our hotel. (On the day of our food tour, some of the streets were closed for Diwali which made accessing transport a little difficult.)

Why this food tour?

For starters, if this is your first trip to India, let alone Delhi, you’ll never find these stalls even once you’ve reached Chandni Chowk. The market precinct is a heaving mass of people, traffic, and cows. You’re guaranteed to get lost. Plus, A Chef’s Tour is renowned for taking you to the right stalls to ensure you don’t get Delhi Belly! And you learn about India and its people along the way. According to our guide, these two cows (pictured below) set off from their home every morning and head to the same place in the market, settle in and enjoy being fed by the locals all day. Come dusk, they set off back home again.

Tour inclusions

The tour cost AUD $52 per person. Everything is included – food, hot and cold drinks, bottled water. Dietary requirements or allergies are carefully noted before commencing the tour. Maximum 8 guests. Check out https://achefstour.com/tour/delhi-food-tours for the inclusions.

Getting there

The communication during the weeks leading up to the tour was professional. We knew exactly where and when to meet our guide Ranveer and for the next four plus hours we ploughed through people and market stalls, tasting myriad samples of Indian food. As per instructions, we were to meet at Gate 1 but our Uber dropped us off at Gate 4 (Lal Quila). Ranveer communicated with us via WhatsApp to check that we had arrived, met us at Gate 4 and guided us back to Gate 1, taking the underpass to avoid the traffic.

Our guide (pictured above):

Ranveer was warm and welcoming. His English was above average which made the tour more enjoyable. His knowledge base was very good.

Good to know

Chandi Chowk market is open every day 9.30am – 8.00pm except Sunday. Weekdays are less crowded. It is closed on national holidays and festivals like Diwali, Janmashtami and Eid.

Auto/taxi. The market is well-connected with the auto rickshaw and taxi network. Book an auto rickshaw/tuktuk via Uber.

Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk, Chawri Bazar on the Yellow Line.

Check out Delhi Tourism before booking tours and confirming ‘open hours’ to avoid disappointment.

Gurdwara. Also spelt Gurudwara. Although called the residence of the Guru (God), Sikhs believe that God is present everywhere. The Gurdwara is where Sikhs congregate for worship. It is a place to learn spiritual wisdom, where religious ceremonies are held, and children learn the Sikh faith, texts, customs and traditions. It is also a very important place as a community centre offering food, shelter and companionship for those in need. There are no idols, statues or religious pictures in a Gurdwara; because Sikhs worship only God, they regard God as having no physical form. There are no candles, incense or bells. The focus is the book of Sikh scripture, the Guru Granth Sahib. During the day it sits on a raised platform under a canopy and covered with a cloth when not being read.

Wala. You’ll hear this word often. It is a widely used idiom and means the owner or purveyor of something, often translated as ‘guy’ (e.g. Pizza-wala means pizza guy).

Street food. It refers to ready-to-eat food and beverages that are prepared and sold on the street or in public places; it allows people to experience the true flavours and culinary traditions of a particular region, using local ingredients and cooking techniques.

Masal. A blend of dried spices or a spice paste. Often the main spice blend for Indian-accented dishes.

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