Bowral – Let’s go hunting for truffles

It’s a blue-sky day. The country air is clean and crisp. The tip of my nose is touching a top layer of soil secretly blanketing a small mound. I can’t see it but can smell a distinct earthy fragrance that’s undeniably truffle.
I’m in Roberston, in the picturesque Southern Highlands of New South Wales. For truffle lovers, this part of the world is nirvana.

Although our home is more than 1,000 km away, we’re based in Bowral for the week. Our drive to the truffle farm is only 30 minutes away. We arrive at our destination, climb out of the four-wheel-drive, walk past the farm’s barn and head to a blazing fire pit to warm our hands. Our hosts Patrick and Tanya Moroney regale us with the highs and lows of life as a truffière, the complex, symbiotic relationship between “inoculated tree and truffle, the dedication and years of hard work required to get to where Robertson Truffle Farm is today. There’s no ‘get rich quick’ scheme. Truffle farming is a risky business with success dependent on many variables, especially climate. 

Along with a group of eager novice truffle hunters, we leave the warmth of the fire pit and head towards avenues of trees known as La Truffire.  Vital to the success of our truffle hunting effort today, we are accompanied by Marilyn and Garth McKenzie and their truffle hunting dogs. 

Off we wander around the avenues in expectation of what we might find. Suddenly we come to a standstill. Our four-legged truffle-hunting companion has stopped, tail wagging, paws scratching, nose burying into the dirt. I gently sweep away the soil with my fingers taking care not to break the hidden treasure. Further digging is required. I’m handed a spoon but I prefer to continue with my fingers. When the truffle finally reveals itself, it is the size of a golf ball. I’ve stuck gold. Black gold. A well-deserved treat is handed to the eager hound.

This tiny irregularly shaped black ball is a subterranean fungus. Its taste is difficult to describe but is often referred to as having an impactful umami flavour. Just the sight of it stirs my senses.  Shave into paper-thin slices and gently sprinkle onto a plate of just cooked al dente pasta or risotto. Sprinkle freshly grated truffle over fluffy scrambled eggs. Mix a generous handful of left-over fragments with French-style butter. Fold portions of truffle crumbs into creamy mashed potato…

Thanks to our furry companions, the hunt is a success. Boxes filled with today’s bounty are carried to the barn. We all follow in hot pursuit hoping to get a taste of the truffles. We are not disappointed.

A long table awaits our arrival, set in anticipation of a feast. Rustic candelabra, strings of fairy lights and oversized drapes of fine fabric add a touch of magic.

Locally baked bread peppered with truffle and creamy truffle butter kickstarts the lunch. Next is a silky potato and leek soup punctuated by finely sliced truffle followed by crunchy-crumbed truffle arancini balls. And to finish, light-as-air truffle souffle, topped with a wedge of gooey brie and buttery mushrooms. Superb.

The two-hour truffle adventure is pure joy from start to finish. Senses and bellies satiated we head back to Bowral. Full marks to all.

Where: Robertson Truffles 151 McEvilly Rd Robertson NSW. When you book you will be sent details on how to find the farm.

Cost: $180 per person including the lunch

What’s involved: The truffle hunt lasts for two hours and includes hands-on involvement digging up truffles followed by a light lunch featuring fresh truffle.

Dress: Wear comfortable boots and rug up. A beany and scarf are recommended.

Buy: You can buy truffles after lunch. Patrick and Tanya will explain how to store your truffles correctly. Cost is calculated per gram and varies on the quality of each truffle.

Website: https://www.robertsontruffles.com.au/

Spoiler: Did you know many truffle oils you buy from the supermarket or your favourite deli are not made from truffle. They are manufactured aromatic compounds with an oil base.